Black's Bar & Kitchen -- post-renovation

Finally got to the renovated Black's Bar & Kitchen. Jeff Black's first area restaurant had fallen behind his later creations -- Addie's, Black Market, and BlackSalt -- and the renovation offered a chance to upgrade. Food was outstanding on this visit. We had a tangy tuna tatar with a fresh citrus taste, and delicate deep-fried stuffed squash blossoms as starters. My entree was a perfectly grilled tender veal chop with a cream spinach side that was impeccably prepared -- green, with a fresh spinach taste holding up to the cream. The soft shell crabs got good marks from my dinner partner. The espresso chocolate cake was down a notch, a bit too busy and gooey. The wine list seemed way overpriced, though we were there on a Sunday when bottles are half-price, so it was fine for us. New decor a big improvement, but a little cold for my taste. Service was fine, though fussy with a lot of unnecessary gimmicks; waiter intruded with remarks on our conversation. Of course, this all has a price -- bill now is closer to $75 all in, compared to $45 before. But now the original Black's is on a par with BlackSalt, the fanciest and busiest of the group.