Weygandt Wines

Todd Ross, one of the proprietors of a new wine store in Cleveland Park, Weygandt Wines, believes that most New World wines are striving to achieve the quality of Old World wines. So why not just buy the Old World wines to begin with?

So his store carries mostly French wines, with a smattering of Italian, German and Austrian. It doesn't have nearly the stock, say, of an Addie Bassin's, but it has a great selection of largely handcrafted wines. It's a fun store, with the wines not displayed on shelves but resting in their cartons below "road" signs designating the region.

I took part yesterday in a private tasting arranged for a small group (try it, it's fun!). We tasted six wines destined to be paired with the courses in a French meal. Todd selected the wines, all French, most in the $20-$30 price range, and talked about them while he poured the samples (we paid for the sample bottles and for the wines we finally chose to go with the meal).

For the first course, a fish dish, Todd offered us a Pascal and Nicolas Reverdy Sancerre Les Coutes 2008 ($23), which had the crisp, flinty taste that this terroir lends to sauvignon blanc grapes. Aged in stainless steel vats, this wine offers a clean taste to cut through the fish, Todd suggested.

As an alternative, he suggested a 2007 Domaine de la Chapelle Pouilly-Fussé Vieilles Vignes 2007 ($34). This white burgundy chardonnay reminded you how silky and fruity the varietal can taste when it's not overshadowed by oak. This wine was aged in barrels with new and seasoned oak but this only served to round out the flavor. The Pouilly-Fussé would complement the fish flavor, Todd said. We thought both were terrific but opted for the Sancerre for the meal.

For the main course, a beef dish, Todd offered a Domaine Collotte Marsannay Clos de Jeu 2007 ($26). This Burgundy pinot noir, while still a bit young, had a beautiful ruby color and a light, refreshing taste. Todd suggested that a light wine could set off a heavy dish better.

As an alternative, he suggested a Domaine Alary Cotes du Rhone-Villages Cairanne La Font d'Estévenas 2007 ($28). This inky, fruity Cotes du Rhone -- 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah -- was outstanding and a great value. However, we opted for the Burgundy to keep the tone light.

For the cheese course, Todd suggested two fortified wines. My notion of what wines to drink with cheese, I'll admit, has undergone considerable revision in the past few months as all of a sudden, it seems, everyone is suggesting sweet wines with cheese rather than the red wines I have habitually had. Todd, for instance, said that red wine with blue cheese is not a good match, and on reflection, I have to agree.

First choice was Vial-Magneres Banyuls Rivage 2006 ($39), a white Banyuls that Todd said would pair well with most cheeses -- our selection includes a blue and a goat cheese, as well as a triple cream and a semi-soft, washed rind cheese. This dessert wine had yellowish-golden color and a honey taste that coated your throat and left you wanting more.

The alternative choice was a Domaine des Soulanes Maury Vin Doux Naturel 2007 ($25). A real contrast to the Banyuls, this inky red dessert wine truly had a soft, velvety mouth-feel from the rich Grenache and Carignan grapes grown in Roussillon in the shadow of a Cathar fortress. We found the choice too hard this time, so took one bottle of each for our meal.

The store has a great Web site, with a searchable database and information about each of the selections and vintners. Most of them are personally known to Peter Weygandt, the epynomous co-proprietor, and Todd. You can order online. The crew is also preparing to offer wine tours in Europe next fall.

Disclaimer: As always, I received no compensation or consideration of any kind from the store for writing this blog.