Bistrot Lepic

Two splurges in one week, but in fairness our power went out yesterday afternoon after the wind toppled a tree in the neighborhood so we allowed ourselves a hardship premium when the only table we could find was in the more expensive downstairs dining room of this nice little restaurant.

I've always liked Bistrot Lepic and found it among the most authentically French of Washington's restaurants, but we had not been to dining room in at least a couple of years. It's quite small, charming, and not too loud because the decor softens noise and most of the patrons are even older than we are.

A special starter was calves' brain, which I've never had but decided this was the place to try it. It was very refined, nicely sauteed, with a soft interior even creamier than sweetbreads. There was, oddly enough, a slightly fishy taste, which may have been due to the capers. It was quite good and I'm glad I tried it, but I might hold out for sweetbreads the next time, or brains without capers. Andrea had a simple lentil soup which she liked.

My main course was grilled tuna on a chickpea crepe and it was fabulous. "It tastes like steak!" Andrea exclaimed when she sampled it (she's not a fan of most fish, tuna included, so this is high praise). Her braised veal cheeks with orecchietti that had to be homemade (by somebody) were also spectacular. The orecchietti had cream and cheese on them and were divine, nicely setting off the warm, meaty flavor of the braised meat.

Looking for a pinot noir, we took the waiter's recommendation to go for the Trimbach from Alsace rather than a cheap Burgundy, and it opened into a perfect accompaniment for both dishes.