Thursday, February 16, 2012

Duck legs braised in port and dried cherries

I knew if I kept searching I would find duck legs one of these days. I had a chance to swing by Balducci's in Wildwood Shopping Center and found a package, conveniently enough, of exactly the four moulard legs weighing 3-1/2 lbs. called for in this recipe from Molly Stevens' All About Braising.


It seemed perfect for this week's special event (which we don't celebrate at a restaurant). You start the day before by grinding 1 tsp. lightly toasted coriander seeds with 1/2 tsp. black peppercorns and 1/2 tsp. allspice berries, then mix that with 1 Tbl. chopped thyme and 1-1/2 tsp. coarse salt. You rub this spice mix over the duck legs, which you have trimmed of fat and skin flaps, and refrigerate overnight. Also, you take 1/2 c. (3 oz.) of dried, unsweetened cherries and "plump" them overnight in 1 c. tawny port.

The next day you brown the duck legs in a cast iron skillet, putting them skin side down over medium heat and not moving them for about 7 min. Check that the skin has crisped then turn over to brown flesh side for 3 or 4 min. No need to add fat because the legs render fat quickly. Drain off the fat from the first batch and repeat with second batch. Keep 2 Tbl. of fat to saute 1 large, thinly sliced shallot for 1 or 2 min., then add the cherries and port and reduce in half for 4 or 5 min. Add a bay leaf and 1 c. chicken stock, and reduce in half again, for about 8 min.

Place the duck legs in a 4 to 5 qt. braising pan, pour over the braising liquid, cover with parchment paper, pushing it down towards the legs and leaving an inch or so around the outside, cover tightly and put into preheated 325-degree oven. Check after first half hour that liquid is not simmering too fast. After 1 hr. cooking, turn legs over. Cook for 2 hrs altogether.

Remove the legs to a sheet pan and pour braising liquid into saucepan. The legs will have rendered a lot more fat, so skim that off the top and reduce the liquid to a syrupy sauce. Check for seasoning and keep at a low simmer. Meanwhile, turn the oven heat up to 475 degrees and put the legs in skin side up to crisp, for 8 to 10 min. Put on a platter and ladle the cherry-port sauce over it.

Now I like duck, and braised duck in particular, and this was pretty spectacular. Following Stevens' suggestion, we accompanied with creamy polenta and a California Zinfandel and it was truly a special meal for a special occasion.

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