Palena

We have been meaning to go to the formal dining room at Palena for some time and try the prix fixe menu there. So for a special occasion this week we went to test just how well Frank Ruta's famously meticulous and exacting standards worked in practice.

It was fabulous. The best food we have had since Paris. We opted for the more expensive six-course tasting menu and there was not a false note in any of the six courses (nor in the two amuse-bouches, the palate-cleansing sorbet, or the coffee sweets). Everything was fresh, refined, cooked just exactly right, and aesthetically enticing. In addition, the decor and service were just right, very professional but never stuffy, and enhanced the overall dining experience. Despite the high price, it is a great value proposition, given the quality.

Our menu started with a crudo of striped bass on lime creme fraiche. There was the subtlest taste of sea in the fish, not obscured by citric acid, but nothing that would offend those who don't like a fishy taste. The pan-seared sea scallop with pancetta and mushrooms that followed was just superb; you can hardly do scallop like this at home. The rabbit ballotine was a delicate concoction that magically combined the heartiness of the rabbit with the lightness of a ballotine. But it was the gnocci with goat cheese that virtually stole the show; exquisite, full of butter without tasting heavy or greasy.

The main course was roasted chicken breast, which may sound pedestrian to some for a gourmet tasting menu, but this was tender, with a pure real chicken flavor and a light crisp skin and may have been the best chicken breast I've ever eaten. The dessert medley contained a chocolate mousse and an olive oil ice cream, among other delights, but perhaps because it was at the end of such a big meal, we had trouble figuring out what was which -- but they were all good!

I also ordered the wine pairings and they were fine, but six half-glasses for $51 was not a great value, and I would pass in favor or ordering by the glass or the bottle. A half-glass served with each course simply does not make for relaxed sipping between the courses.

The restaurant was just half full on a week night, which was great for us because it was lively enough but not noisy or hectic. I presume Ruta can meet his fixed costs with the expanded cafe operation, where we have often enjoyed the hamburgers and other more mundane offerings. The prix fixe is clearly a labor of love and a standard-setter for DC. I highly recommend this gem to residents and visitors.