Iron Bridge Wine Co.

This place outside Columbia pretty much in the middle of nowhere looked like fun when our friends suggested meeting there and turned out to be even better than we anticipated. It certainly confirms my belief that the food revolution has penetrated deep into rural corners you wouldn't expect. We decided that it would be hard to find a place that combined the high quality of food with the energy of an unfussy ambiance anywhere in Bethesda.

Our friends had snagged one of the best tables, in the corner behind the fireplace, so that we benefited from the hubbub but could still carry on a conversation. The food looked so appetizing, we went whole hog with drinks, appetizers, main course, dessert and coffee -- and of course a bottle of wine.

Three of us took the special of the day -- braised lamb shoulder with Swiss chard and mashed potatoes -- and Andrea got the duck breast. I had the buratta with tomato and fennel jam as a starter, and it was very fresh and creamy with a slight tang set off well by the jam. The lamb was incredibly tender and very flavorful and perfectly complemented by the sides. Andrea's duck was also very good, tender and moist, and her house-cured salmon starter was excellent. The desserts were all good -- my bourbon pecan tart, Andrea's cranberry bread pudding and the flourless chocolate cake and creme brulee ordered by our friends. I tried the old-fashioned with bacon-infused bourbon -- not the most successful experiment -- and we ordered a bottle of Descombes Nouveau Beaujolais in honor of the season, and it may have been the best NB I've ever had.

The restaurant, which has a sister location in Warrenton, is also a wine retailer with an excellent selection (and the markups at dinner are quite minimal). We got some of the Beaujolais and an Alsatian Riesling to bring home.

It was such a pleasant surprise to find all this in what we tend to call BF Maryland that we resolved to meet our friends again soon in another such location. They live in Baltimore and have made a practice of exploring the hinterland for these hidden gems. Our next venture will probably be to the Bistro Blanc, a new restaurant started nearby by the former chef at Iron Bridge. Others on the list are Woodberry Kitchen in Baltimore and Tersiguel's in Ellicott City.