Palena Cafe

When some friends suggested going to a wine-tasting at Weygandt's with Eric Asimov I took advantage of the expanded Cafe Palena's ability to take reservations and booked us a table there afterwards. I was keen to finally try Frank Ruta's signature roast chicken and it lived up to all my expectations and more.

As one of our friends said, "This may be the best roast chicken I've ever had." Crispy, browned skin, moist interior just cooked through, piping hot from the oven, with just a garnish of braised greens, it was simply delicious. There's a lot of speculation online just how he does it. There seems to be more flavor than just the lemon and lemon zest Ruta gives in a roast chicken recipe in Food and Wine, but maybe something short of a marinade. The chicken is undoubtedly organic and spends time in the fridge to dry out the skin so that it roasts crispy. It is prepared completely on order and takes a good 30 to 45 minutes (though waiting with a perfect Sazerac, Palena's delicious selection of bread and good company is no hardship).

My already favorable impression of the Cafe soared. Everything was just right -- the service was impeccable and friendly, the bread was oven warm and tasty (the bread sticks were fabulous), the butter was soft, the Sazerac -- did I mention? -- was perfect, the Caesar salad Andrea and I split was like a Romaine wedge with parmesan, the glass of Cote du Rhone was smooth, the coffee was fresh and robust.

It's not particularly cheap -- $21 may strike some as high for chicken, but it's a full half and a bargain at this price; there is a token extra charge for the bread and there was even a charge for splitting the salad. But, hey, you're getting the full quality of the prix fixe restaurant for a fraction of the price.